An Online Introduction
Solo packrafts are almost always paddled with double-bladed kayak-style paddles. Packrafting paddles are characterized by a high degree of packability, light weight, and reliability for paddling in remote locations. The ideal paddle is dependent on packraft type, conditions, user, and user preferences.
What is a “Packrafting Paddle?”
Packrafters often claim that a true “packraft paddle” can be broken down into four pieces: two separable shaft segments and separable paddle blades. This makes the paddle easy to pack into an overnight pack without any protruding pieces. Some definitions of what makes a “packraft paddle” also include stipulations for weight, durability, and/or paddle length.
At the end of the day, though, there’s really no such thing as a “packraft paddle.” The vast majority of “packraft paddles” are borrowed from river or ocean kayaking lines from popular paddle manufacturers. The best paddle for you will depend on who you are and how you plan to use it. For example, if you are a running bony Class IV rapids in a Gnarwhal you may want a stiff, powerful whitewater paddle with large blades. If you want to hike twenty miles and mosey across the toe of a mountain lake in a Supai Flatwater, you may be able to get by with featherweight carbon blades that attach to your trekking poles.
One, two, three, four…
The first decision you’ll likely make is whether you want a one-, two-, three-, or four-piece packraft paddle. Four-piece paddles have detachable paddle blades and a shaft that separates into two pieces in the middle. Three-piece paddles usually have removable blades and a solid shaft. Two-piece paddles generally separate in the middle, and a one-piece paddle doesn’t separate at all. Many popular paddles come in one, two, three, or four-piece configurations, and some expensive paddles (such as those from Werner) can be custom-ordered in different configurations.
A four-piece paddle is easy to pack completely inside an overnight backpack and is an obvious first choice for most packrafters. Four-piece paddles are much easier to fly with than other configurations, since the sections can be well-protected inside checkable bags. However, designing a paddle to break into multiple sections does entail some compromises. The hardware to make the sections attach tightly adds weight, which is especially important at the ends of the paddle. Attachment points and hardware are subject to wear from sand, water, and grit, and most joints will develop play over time. Generally speaking, a single-piece paddle may feel slightly more solid, weigh less than, and will likely outlast an equivalently-designed four-piece paddle. However, packing a single-piece paddle on a backpack is ridiculous, and carrying one through heavy brush would be a nightmare.
For many paddlers and trips, a two-piece paddle may be a worthwhile compromise between the packability of a four-piece paddle and the lightness and durability of a one-piece. Two-piece paddles keep added weight from attachment points away from the blades, and are easy to carry on a backpack in most conditions (except for heavy brush). Many high-end paddles, especially those oriented toward sea kayaking, are only available in one or two-piece configurations, and two-piece options are much more plentiful than four-piece.
Three-piece paddles are somewhat rare and aren’t used by packrafters often because they tend to combine the worst attributes of other paddle configurations. The one-piece shaft is long and awkward to pack, and the attachment points at the paddle blades are located exactly where you don’t want added weight and wear.
Whatever configuration you choose, remember to always fully separate your paddle to dry after use. Water left between paddle segments can corrode metal attachment parts and cause composites to swell, making the joint difficult or impossible to separate later.
There are a nearly infinite number of paddle blade shapes, from the svelte traditional Greenland paddle to stubby computer-optimized whitewater paddles, but most designs fall into one of two broad categories: low-angle paddles and high-angle paddles.
High-angle paddles have shorter shafts that require a more vertical stroke. Their large blades maximize power and prevent the paddle from snagging on obstacles. High-angle designs are generally preferred by powerful paddlers in challenging water–think whitewater kayaker maneuvering around rocks in a Class IV canyon–and are built tough to handle collisions with obstacles. The vast majority of paddles marketed as “packraft paddles” fall into the high-angle category. These paddles are a good starting point because they provide the durability and power to run rapids or scrape against rocks in shallow creeks, while also working reasonably well for slow-moving river and lakes.
Low-angle paddles have longer shafts and long, thin blades that encourage a sweeping stroke. Low-angle paddles require less upper-body motion than a high-angle paddle, so they are preferred by sea kayakers putting in long days on open water. Because low-angle paddles prioritize efficiency over power, they tend to be built from lightweight materials that aren’t designed to encounter many obstacles. Though low-angle paddles are rarely marketed to packrafters, they are a good option for those who primarily spend their time on lakes or gentle rivers. Low-angle touring paddles are often harder to find in four-piece configurations and are not designed to be roughhoused in creeks. But they will more than make up for their deficiencies with feathery weight and efficient stroke on flatwater.
Packrafts are almost always wider than both river kayaks and sea kayaks, so the ideal paddles for packrafting tend to be longer so they can clear the tubes. Alpacka recommends a 210mm paddle for general/creeking use. For whitewater and creeking a slightly shorter (190-205mm) paddle may be ideal since it will make it easier to drive the paddle vertically, and avoid obstacles. For flatwater a longer low-angle paddle (220-230mm) will provide more leverage and comfort because the additional length allows you to keep the paddle at a shallower angle. Don’t go too long though. Packrafts don’t track especially well, and wide, sweeping stroke from a long paddle will make it harder to stay pointed straight.
A small number of paddles–most notably the Werner/Alpacka collaboration “Pack-Tour M” paddle–allow a paddler to adjust shaft length.
Powerful paddlers may tend to prefer larger, longer paddles, while smaller paddles may prefer smaller paddles.
Mid- to high-end paddles are made out of composite materials, including fiberglass, nylon, and/or carbon fiber. It can be difficult or impossible to determine the exact proportion of materials in a paddle, and no one material is categorically better than any other. For example, carbon fiber is exceptionally stiff and light but more prone to shattering than fiberglass, which is slightly heavier but tends to simply wear down over time. Any material can be engineered for light weight, durability, or any other goal. Design, construction, and material quality all impact paddle performance more than the material itself.
The only material to avoid in paddles categorically is metal, which is heavy and conducts heat away from your hands. Avoid cheap paddles from stores like Sportsman’s Warehouse or WalMart–these “oversized spatulas” are heavy, flexy, and unreliable.
“So what’s the best all-around packraft paddle?”
The answer depends on your strength, paddling style, boat, and other factors. However, most people will be well-served by adhering to a few starting guidelines: look for a four-piece high-angle composite paddle of approximately 205-210cm. A paddle in this range will be packable, light, and of an appropriate length for most creeking and flatwater. Popular high-performance options include the Aqua-bound Manta Ray Carbon and the Werner Shuna.
Packrafters who focus on technical whitewater (Class II+ and upward) tend to prefer four-piece paddles in the 195-210cm range. Werner is the market leader in this category. Werner’s excellent (if expensive) four-piece all-around/whitewater paddles include the Powerhouse, Shuna and Sherpa.
For flatwater and big, wide rivers consider the Werner Camano at 220cm.
As you gain more experience paddling, try using as many paddles as you can. You might be surprised by how well (or how poorly) some paddles perform with your boat and paddling style. Over time you’ll figure out exactly what paddle is best for you.
Last updated June 2019
If you've enjoyed this introductory article series and would like to learn more, check out The Packraft Handbook, by Luc Mehl. At over 400 pages and featuring illustrations by the amazing Sarah Glaser, the Packraft Handbook is a comprehensive source of info about gear, technique, safety, and more.
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(This is not an affiliate link, I just think it's a great resource!)